It is a mark of how high the mountains are in Alpefjord that 2-3 hours after the previous sunrise photograph was taken, the sun is only just reaching over the top of this one. The magical light marked a truly memorable morning (and indeed day). We started by taking a zodiac cruise as far up the fjord as was physically possible. And in so doing, we lived out the saying "sailing in uncharted waters". Until the 1960s, Sefstrøm Gletscher on the eastern side had stretched across this north/south fjord, blocking transit further south. It has melted enough for zodiacs to pass through, but as the depths are unplumbed, we may have been the first in the world ever to get down to the southern end... or at least some of the very few who have been so lucky.